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Popular fashion brand Reformation is under fire after releasing a new collection that many say appropriates traditional South Asian attire, sparking a broader conversation about cultural respect in the fashion industry.
Earlier this month, Reformation launched a collaboration with influencer Devon Lee Carlson, featuring a midi skirt, matching camisole, and long scarf ensemble. Observers quickly noted the outfit's striking resemblance to a traditional South Asian lehenga. Social media users and cultural commentators accused the brand of cultural appropriation, arguing that it borrowed significant elements without properly acknowledging their cultural significance.
In response, a spokesperson for Reformation told The New York Times that the brand "respects the origin of this criticism given South Asian culture's influence on Western style." They added, however, that "no item of clothing or trend can be considered in isolation without broader historical and cultural precedent."
While taking inspiration from global cultures is common in fashion, experts say it’s the lack of credit and context that crosses the line into appropriation. Elle Magazine noted that when traditional garments like lehengas or dupattas are repackaged and sold by major Western brands, they often lose their cultural significance and become mere commodities.
“Appreciating culture requires education, context, and respect,” said Souzeina Mushtaq, an assistant professor at the University of Wisconsin, speaking to The Washington Post. Mushtaq emphasized the importance of understanding the deeper meanings behind traditional garments rather than simply borrowing their aesthetic. Ideally, brands would collaborate with the communities they draw from and compensate them fairly.
A Pattern of Cultural Capitalism in Fashion
Reformation is not alone in facing criticism. Brands like Oh Polly and H&M have also been accused of appropriating South Asian designs without proper acknowledgment or collaboration. According to Harper's Bazaar India, this trend highlights a longstanding pattern: marginalized cultures are often exploited for profit while being stripped of their original meaning.
"The long history of cultural co-optation has often happened at the expense of the marginalized and to the profit of the white," the magazine stated.
Fashion sustainability advocate Kestrel Jenkins, host of the "Conscious Chatter" podcast, pointed out that the pressures of fast fashion exacerbate the problem. "Garments are being turned around as quickly as possible, and with that speed, attention to cultural detail and respect becomes less intentional," Jenkins told the Times.
As fast fashion companies prioritize speed and profitability, culturally significant clothing is increasingly produced with lower-quality materials and stripped of its traditional roots — only to cycle out of fashion just as quickly.
Moving Toward Cultural Appreciation, Not Appropriation
Experts argue that the solution lies in ethical fashion practices: educating consumers, honoring the origins of designs, and partnering with artisans and communities who have kept these traditions alive for generations.
Without meaningful change, critics warn, traditional South Asian clothing — like so many cultural artifacts before it — risks being reduced to a fleeting trend, profited from but not truly respected.
